Plastic Flood: Waste and Privilege in the Kingdom

I have spent most of my life thinking that America was the most over-privileged, selfish and wasteful country on the planet, but I’m starting to wonder if this assumption needs to be revisited. Let me disclaimer here, I am an American. I’ve witnessed a lot of waste in my home country; excess packaging, people who buy too much and throw the “extra” away, throwing away things that are slightly less than perfect including food, clothes and electronics that could easily be fixed or refurbished into usable goods.

I’m lucky to have my home base in the PNW (Pacific Northwest) where recycling and composting, carrying our own reusable grocery bags and donating anything still usable is a base part of the culture. It’s actually illegal to use plastic grocery bags inside the city of Seattle, and Portland is creating packaging free grocery markets.

When travelling back East to visit my family, I am shocked at the use of plastic bags (or any bag) for something that could easily be carried, and always have to be on the alert to stop the clerks from bagging. I also get funny looks for my cloth bags.

But nothing in America prepared me for the waste I’m observing here in Saudi.

The grocery stores here (and even the retail shops) have an inordinate fixation on infinite plastic bags. I go shopping once or twice a week because I’m one person and my fridge is tiny, plus I’m usually walking my haul back due to the driving ban. But even one tiny shopping trip can result in as many as 12 plastic bags entering my home.

First, all the produce must be weighed and priced at a separate produce counter. So if I want apples, bananas, oranges, tomatoes, mint, and onions (a fairly standard list) that’s 6 plastic bags, one for each type of produce. Some vegetables are pre-packed and already priced but they’re in huge Styrofoam containers covered in plastic wrap.

There was a similar policy in China of weighing and pricing produce and deli items before one gets to checkout, but they used very thin plastic bags, and very minimally. This was probably a result of economic restriction than a social desire to reduce waste, since China still produces a huge amount of garbage, but for them it is a matter of a 1.3 billion person population.

Once you get to the checkout, the bagger will put only one or two items in each grocery bag. And these aren’t small bags, they’re actually a little bigger than the standard American grocery bag, made of a pretty tough plastic. So I’m stuck walking out with another 5-7 bags, on top of the 6 I’ve already got my produce in.

If I manage to get to the store when its not crowded, and keep a close eye on the bagger, I can sometimes stop them. I use my backpack and cloth bags instead, but they absolutely think I’m crazy and often try to keep putting my groceries into plastic bags even while I’m loading up the cloth ones and waving them off.

But this is me, a single shopper, with a PNW mindset about bags and waste. One of my cupboards is already filled with plastic bags after only six weeks here, and I reuse the bags as garbage bags since they fit perfectly in my tiny bin.

Saudi families shop like a Costco trip every time I see them. They fill up the grocery carts and walk away with 20-30 bags that are each only 1/4 full.

When I go shopping in the mall, I’ll be given a huge durable plastic bag for even the tiniest item. I often try to prevent this, but I know it only makes a difference in my head, since no one else here will do the same.

When I went to the Home Center and got some items for the house, even large items like my new pillow were placed in giant plastic bags (even though it was already in a plastic wrapping that had a built in handle) and loaded up on a trolley by a porter to be taken to the van before I could intervene.

And there’s no recycling. Anywhere. All these plastic bags (not even counting the water bottles and pop cans), are just building up into a massive plastic flood.

Oil is so cheap here, so plentiful, that the concept of resource management or conservation is just entirely foreign. On top of this, they aren’t in any danger of loosing arable land to waste dumps because the vast majority of the land mass here is desert. And when the plastic flood gets too big, the solution seems to be fire.

Driving (ok, riding) home from work one day, I saw a huge plume of dark black smoke billowing up on the horizon. I asked the other teachers in the car what they thought it was, and I was told it was burning garbage. Such plumes of black garbage smoke are sadly not an uncommon sight.

All I can do is keep fighting to refuse plastic bags, and try to stick to my own principles of minimal waste, but it feels even less effectual here than it did in the US. Moreover, I know that the industrial waste in the US is orders of magnitude larger than the individual waste, and if that is a reflection of cultural values then I am horrified by what the industrial waste here must be.

So given all of the global chatter about climate change and sustainability, the criticisms to China and India as developing nations needing to curb their waste, why is no one calling for Saudi Arabia to reduce, recycle, reuse? Is it because at only 29 million people, the footprint is still too small? Or is this another way that wealth (oil) privilege can be seen on the global scale?

Unspoken Rules and Double Standards

Sorry if this ends up being incoherent. I’ve been woken up from my nap twice. First nap I’ve been able to have since arriving, by the way. Every day I come home thinking I’ll have a nap, and haven’t been able to until today, and bam, woken up twice for this junk.

So, you remember when you were a kid, and your parents taught you that lying was bad? Then the first time you heard one of your parents tell a white lie like ‘no that dress doesn’t make you look fat’ or ‘my goodness this green jello casserole is delicious’ you were like WHAT!? no way you just lied, lying is bad!

Parents then undergo the difficult prospect of trying to explain the complex rules that govern untruth in the adult world. Because even though we all know lying is bad we lie every day to make things easier, to spare someone’s feelings, to avoid an unpleasant conversation, to pretend that we care about what our boss thinks, or even just to get what we want.

Most of the time, by the time we reach adulthood, we’ve built some kind of reasonable database of acceptable lies, which is to say, the ones that don’t get us in trouble. But if you asked most adults to write some rules for how this works, they wouldn’t be able to because its always a case by case basis, and our brains do some very complex algorithms to determine in any given situation if its ok to lie.

With me so far?

Because I feel like the entire situation of men and women talking in Saudi is just like this. When you arrive, you hear talking to men you aren’t related to is haram (bad). But then you find yourself talking to a man and its ok. Talking to shopkeepers is ok, but don’t talk to them too much. WTF is that?  But I’m out in public with this man alone? Well, he’s not a Saudi, so its ok as long as you’re in public. But I’m in my apartment with these 2 guys? Is one of them Western? Well, that’s ok because one of them is obviously a chaperone. But if they’re both Saudi then haram! This guy drove me to the airport? He’s just a driver, so that’s ok. This guy gave me a ride to a party and chatted with me on the way? But he’s your friend’s father and she was with you, so its ok. This guy took me out shopping. oh my god haram don’t you know you could get deported for that!!!!!!

*sigh

Does this abaya make me look slutty?

The Glorious 35th of May

No that’s not a typo in the title. I’m talking about June 4th using the oblique reference some Chinese satirically use to avoid drawing unwanted government attention to their discussion of the pro-democracy protests on that day 25 years ago. Also with a little nod to Terry Pratchett’s Night Watch thrown in for good measure. Also, yes I know I’m a few days late, but the last several days have been so full of thoughts and news and reflections that it took me some time to get my own in order.

The iconic image of the young man standing in front of the oncoming tanks is known to many, but the details of what happened that day are not often focused on. This post is just my own musings on the situation, and not really meant to be a history lesson. Fortunately, there are a ton of retrospectives out there right now, so google to your hearts content for the official history or just click here for a short sweet version with videos.

My Impressions of the Square

06-entry to Forbidden CityThe first time I went to China,  I visited the square on my last week there in the summer of 2005. The square was very open, ringed by government buildings, the tomb of Mao, and the Forbidden City, the giant expanse of red brick was scarcely broken up at all. The streets around the square are major roads, and there were only a few places where one could cross them, but the important thing here is, one could cross the roads and enter the square at pretty much any point.05 - Olympic countdown There were underground passages into the square. I actually thought at the time that these were kind of cool, because it seemed safer for the huge mass of pedestrian traffic to not have to deal with street lights and cross walks.Oh, I can’t forget to mention the Olympic countdown clocks, which were counting down the subsequent three years until the Beijing Olympics.

My last visit was in 2012, after the Olympic updates and security increases, and now the square is entirely enclosed by a permanent fence and can only be entered via the underground tunnels which now include security guards and x-ray machines that make TSA look wimpy. Additionally, food trucks, extra architecture and gardening, and huge giant massive televisions screens have been installed in the square, breaking up the previously wide open space, and pretty much destroying the awesome impact of standing in the world’s largest public square. Here’s the same statue in 2005 and 2012, you can see the added fences and hedges, and the two television screens that break the whole square up.

All of this increased security and breaking up of the landscape is designed specifically to prevent the use of the square as a platform for public protest, while keeping it a bustling tourist attraction.

So What About the Massacre?

This is a little trickier. I don’t actually remember when I learned about it first. I think we talked about it in school when it happened, but Chinese culture and history is not widely taught in America, so it was never more than mentioned.  I did spend some time studying in grad school while I was researching the Falun Gong, because the 10th anniversary played a role in the 1999 crackdown on that group. What I do remember, is that I never for a moment doubted that this was a stunning act of violence that resulted in thousands of deaths and arrests of those who wanted to bring democracy to their country.

On the 4th, one of my former professors from the UW who is still on my FB posted some of his own pictures and journal entries from the event. You see, he had been there. Seeing someone I know in the midst of all that was really quite surreal. And his journal entries gave an extremely personal view of the violence, speaking of the rusted skeletons of army trucks on fire, the bullet holes in the glass of the subway station, and bicycles pancake-flattened like cartoons after having been run over by the tanks.

This made me think about my own experience with the youth of China while I was teaching at a college near Beijing in 2007. I have no idea how the topic came up, maybe we were discussing rights and freedoms. The Chinese students were very proud of all the rights they have as Chinese citizens, but the right to assembly and peaceful protest still don’t exist there. Then all of a sudden, we’re talking about the pro-democracy protests in 1989. I’m curious what the students think of it, do they even know it happened? Because of the internet, it is difficult to keep certain things from the tech-savvy Chinese youth, and they had all seen the iconic tank-man photo. However, they argued, since the tanks had stopped and not run the man over, it was a peaceful protest and no one died.

Relying on the notion that few Chinese would take the time and energy to go through proxy websites (circumventing the Great Firewall of China) to read English language historical accounts, the government acknowledged the photo, but changed the narrative around it. I was completely stunned. I couldn’t formulate a response to this argument, which was probably just as well, because trying to convince my class of the real history could have gotten me fired or even deported. Yeah, free speech is totally a thing there.

The 25th Anniversary

All over the news, all over the net, trending in social media in Hong Kong, Taiwan and all over the world except in China. Back to the Great Firewall of China, the government actually banned the use of certain words for the day, including the word “today”. The internet police (yeah that’s a thing) managed to get each offensive reference to the date off the net in about ten minutes.  However, according to the BBC China Trending Editor (how do you get this job title?) the Chinese who wanted to commemorate the event did so by referencing the musical Les Miserables, specifically the Finale.

That’s right, the modern Chinese pro-democracy movement is looking to the French struggle for democracy as a means of discussing their own plight. And while I am sad that my students didn’t seem to know what had happened in their country less than two decades before, I am heartened by the number of people in China and around the world that have taken the time to remember what happens when people stand up for a government that they want, instead of one that is forced on them. We are seeing this every day in the Arab Spring, in Thailand, and other places where the quest for self-governance becomes violent, and now we know we’re seeing it on a quieter scale through the global community on the internet.

This afternoon, while listening to NPR, I heard the story of Ko Jimmy and Nilar Thein. They were pro-democracy activists in Myanmar (nee Burma) who started protesting in 1988, and were arrested and spent many years in prison. The military dictatorship they were fighting against finally ended in 2011, and they (along with hundreds of other political prisoners) were freed in 2012. Ko and Nilar were greeted as heroes. Maybe one day, the thousands who lost their lives and freedom at Tiananmen 25 years ago will be remembered by everyone as fondly.